Questions Oklahoma homeowners actually ask.

No. A CRE Roofing inspection is free and carries no obligation. We photograph what we find, walk you through it in plain language, and tell you honestly whether you need a repair, a full replacement, or nothing at all.

No, and in Oklahoma it is illegal to offer. Since November 1, 2023 state law prohibits a roofing contractor from paying, waiving, absorbing or rebating your insurance deductible. Any company that offers is telling you something important about how they operate.

Oklahoma requires roofing contractors to register with the Construction Industries Board and carry general liability coverage. Ask for the registration number and look it up. Ours is #80007347.

We are based in Warr Acres, so Oklahoma City metro inspections are usually scheduled within 48 hours. Outside the metro it depends on where our crews are working that week - call and we will give you a real date, not a maybe.

We document the damage, meet your adjuster on site, and handle the supplement paperwork with your carrier. You still own the claim and pay your deductible, but you do not have to argue about shingle grades on your own.

Most Oklahoma City metro homes are a one to two day job once materials are on site. Steeper roofs, multiple layers to tear off, or decking that has to be replaced can add a day.

Yes, and we will show you the photos of why. Decking damage is common on older Oklahoma homes and it is not something you can see from the ground - it turns up when the old shingles come off.

Architectural asphalt shingles for most homes, with impact-resistant options - Class 3 and Class 4 - for homeowners who want the extra hail protection, plus metal systems. We will walk you through the trade-offs and what your carrier actually discounts on your inspection.

A complete replacement includes tearing off the old roofing down to the decking, replacing any rotten or damaged decking, new drip edge, new synthetic underlayment, new pipe boots and flashing, new ridge and intake ventilation where needed, the shingles themselves, full cleanup with a magnet sweep of the yard, and the permit. A quote that is missing several of those line items is not cheaper - it is smaller.

A concrete example from our own work: a 30-square roof that is not steep runs about $11,550. Yours moves from there based on five things - roof area, pitch, how many layers come off, how much decking has to be replaced, and the material class. Insurance replacements and retail replacements also price differently. You get the real number on the inspection, not a range that changes later.

Most of the cost is not the shingles. It is labor on a steep surface, tear-off and disposal of several tons of old material, the decking and flashing that has to be replaced underneath, and the liability insurance that a properly registered Oklahoma contractor has to carry.

Manufacturer ratings assume weather that Oklahoma does not have. In practice, hail is what ends most roofs here, not age. That is why impact-resistant material is worth a conversation on your inspection.

Move what you can out from under it, put a bucket down, and if the ceiling is bulging with trapped water, put a small hole at the low point to let it drain in one controlled place instead of collapsing the drywall. Photograph everything for your insurer. Then use the Call CTA or request a free inspection - do not get on the roof yourself in wet conditions.

If the damage is localized and the rest of the roof has life left, repair it. If the roof is at the end of its service life, or hail damage is spread across every slope, a repair is money spent twice. We will tell you which one you have and we do not get paid more for saying replacement.

Yes. After a storm or during an active leak we can get a tarp on to stop water entering the house while the permanent fix and any claim get sorted out.

Usually close, rarely perfect. Shingle colors change over production runs and sun-fade changes them again. On a visible slope we will tell you honestly how noticeable the patch will be.

Once materials and access are set, many localized repairs finish in a day. Tarping for an active leak is faster; a permanent fix waits on dry conditions, matching shingles when needed, and any decking that has to come out. Your inspection sets the real timeline.

Failed pipe boots. They sit in the sun for years, crack, and leak around the plumbing stack long before the rest of the shingles look finished. Wind-lifted shingles and open flashing at walls, chimneys, and valleys are next.

It depends on the cause. Storm-created damage may run through a claim; wear, age, or maintenance issues often do not. We document what we find and point you to how Oklahoma claims work - we do not give legal advice. See our insurance claims page for deductible and adjuster process facts.

Yes. Our office is in Warr Acres and we run crews across Oklahoma and Missouri, with active work in Texas. Edmond, Norman, Yukon, Moore, and the rest of the metro are home market - not a side trip.

A real repair replaces or rebuilds the failed part and any wet decking under it, then we verify it is dry. A smear of sealant over a cracked boot is not a repair. If the rest of the roof is finished, we will say replacement instead of promising a patch that fails next season.

There is no single threshold. Softer, older shingles bruise at smaller stone sizes, and wind-driven hail hits at an angle that does more damage than the same stone falling straight down. That is why an inspection matters more than the hail report.

A bruise: the shingle mat is fractured under the granules even though the surface looks intact. You find it by feel as much as by eye. Granule loss exposing the mat, and dents in soft metals like vents and gutters, are corroborating evidence.

It is the most common denial reason in this market - the carrier's position that the hail marked the roof without shortening its life. It is sometimes true. It is also the default answer when nobody documented the damage as functional. Proper documentation on the front end is what prevents it.

Policies vary and the clock generally starts at the date of the storm, not the date you noticed. Do not sit on it. If you think a storm hit your roof, get it inspected and documented while the evidence is fresh.

No. Oklahoma law (Okla. Stat. tit. 59, sec. 1151.30), effective November 1, 2023, prohibits a residential or commercial roofing contractor from paying, waiving, absorbing, rebating or otherwise offering to compensate you for your insurance deductible. If a contractor offers, that is a signal about the rest of how they operate.

Inspect and document the damage, be present when the adjuster inspects, provide a detailed scope of the work, submit supplements to the carrier for items the initial scope missed, and build the roof. What they cannot do is act as your public adjuster, negotiate the claim on your behalf as your representative, or handle your deductible.

Oklahoma's Roofing Contractor Registration Act requires roofing contractors to hold a valid registration from the Construction Industries Board and carry general liability insurance. Ask for the number and verify it through the CIB's public roofing registration search. CRE Roofing is registration #80007347.

A denial is not always the end. Get the denial reason in writing, look at what the adjuster's report actually says, and compare it against the documentation from your own inspection. Many denials come down to a scope disagreement rather than a factual one, and can be reopened with better evidence.

That is between you and your carrier and it depends on your policy, your claims history and your carrier's practices. What we can tell you is whether you have functional damage worth filing on - and if you do not, we will say so rather than push you into a claim.

Yes. Your deductible is your share of the loss and it is owed on any covered claim. Anyone telling you otherwise in Oklahoma is offering to do something the law prohibits.

Sometimes, and it is a real technique - a new metal system installed over the old one on a purlin or hat-channel sub-framing, with the old panels left in place. It depends on the condition of the existing panels and the structure underneath, and it is not a shortcut to avoid dealing with rot. We will tell you on the inspection whether your roof is a candidate or whether the old panels have to come off.

Both are impact-rated under UL 2218, the steel-ball test the industry uses for hail resistance. Class 4 is the highest rating and takes the hardest hit before the mat fractures; Class 3 sits a step below it. We use Class 3 as our minimum and install Class 4 wherever the budget allows. Carriers that offer an impact-resistant discount usually require Class 4 specifically, so ask your agent before you choose.

Many Oklahoma carriers offer a discount for a Class 4 rated roof, but the amount and the eligibility rules are set by your carrier, not by us. Ask your agent what your specific policy offers before you decide - it changes the math on whether the upgrade pays for itself.

Less than people expect. A metal roof installed over decking and underlayment on an insulated attic is not the tin shed most people are picturing.

Often, and it is frequently missed. Hail cracks, chips and dents siding, and impacts on the softer sides of the house tell an adjuster which direction the storm came from. Vinyl siding cracks in cold weather at impact energies that would only mark it in summer.

If the same storm caused them, yes - it is one loss, not three. Splitting them into separate claims later is harder and sometimes means a second deductible. This is one of the most common ways money gets left on the table after an Oklahoma hail storm.

Where they need it. Gutters and the fascia behind them take a beating in a hail event, and the roof edge is the one place where roofing, fascia and gutter all meet - which is exactly why doing them separately, months apart, tends to create the leak nobody can find.

Yes.

Yes. A roof cannot be torn off and rebuilt underneath a mounted array. The panels, rails and attachments all come off, the roof is replaced, and the system goes back on and is recommissioned. The industry name for that service is a detach and reset.

It is priced by the number of panels, the number of arrays, the roof pitch, and whether the existing racking and flashings can be reused or have to be replaced. It is quoted as its own line item alongside the roof, and we quote both at the same visit so you see one total instead of two companies pointing at each other.

It can, depending on who does the work and how it is documented. Some manufacturer and workmanship warranties require the removal and reinstall to be performed by a qualified installer and documented. Ask your original solar company what their warranty requires before anyone touches the array - and get the detach and reset documented either way.

The array is de-energized at the disconnect first, then removed and stored on site or off site depending on the job. The system is off for the duration of the roof work and is recommissioned and verified as producing before we call the job finished.

Not on a full replacement. A roofer who offers to shingle around an array is leaving the worst section of your roof - the one with dozens of penetrations under it - untouched, which is where the next leak comes from.

Yes. We do detach and reset work for other Oklahoma roofing contractors who do not carry solar capability in house. You keep the roofing job; we handle the array. Call the office.

Not for a homeowner buying the system outright. The One Big Beautiful Bill Act, signed July 4, 2025, terminated the Section 25D Residential Clean Energy Credit for expenditures made after December 31, 2025, and the IRS treats an expenditure as made when installation is completed - so a system finished in 2026 does not qualify even if you paid a deposit in 2025. One path is left: third-party ownership, where the system owner claims the Section 48E credit through 2027 and that benefit is reflected in your rate. We offer third-party ownership and cash purchase.

Without the federal credit the payback period is longer than it was, and any installer telling you otherwise in 2026 is quoting an old brochure. Solar can still make sense here - especially paired with battery storage for outage resilience - but it has to be run as real math on your actual utility bill, not on a national average.

If your roof has fewer than about ten years of life left, yes. Panels last decades; removing and reinstalling an array to replace the roof underneath it is an expensive mistake. This is the one real advantage of using a roofer who also does solar - we assess both at the same visit.

Not if the mounts are flashed correctly. Every penetration through the deck is a potential leak, which is exactly why the crew doing it should be a roofing crew.

No. Residential only - houses, garages, shops and outbuildings on residential property. We would rather say that than send a crew to something they do not do every day.

Employees. Two electricians on staff, in house, covered under the same insurance policy as the rest of the company. Our shingle crews are subcontracted, like every roofing company at our size, and we say so on the about page - the electricians are the opposite, and that is the reason we can do solar interconnection, detach and reset, and straight electrical work at all.

Yes, all day. One dead outlet, one breaker that will not stay on, a fixture swap - normal work here, not a favor. There is a $250 service call / diagnostic fee for that kind of visit, same as any electrician charges to come find a fault.

For quoted work, yes - a panel upgrade or a standby generator gets a free, no-obligation quote. Troubleshooting an existing problem is different: someone has to actually come find the fault before anyone can quote a fix, and that visit carries the $250 service call fee.

No. Electrical work stands on its own. Plenty of it happens on houses whose roofs we have never touched.

Yes. We pull the electrical permit ourselves and coordinate the utility disconnect and reconnect on panel and service work, so that is not a phone call you have to make.

No. We run standard business hours, Monday through Saturday. Call and we will get panel work, a generator or a service call scheduled - just not as an overnight emergency dispatch.

No. We install Generac standby units without a manufacturer dealer agreement - with Generac or anyone else - which is exactly why we also install every other major generator brand instead of being tied to one. We quote whichever unit actually fits the house.

No. We install it - the siting, the transfer switch, the wiring, the permit and getting it running - and we do not offer ongoing maintenance or a service plan afterward. Check the manufacturer's recommended service interval and line up a servicer for that before you need it.

No. The gas line is done by a licensed plumber we bring in for it - subcontracted, the same way our roofing shingle crews are - while our own electricians handle the siting, wiring, transfer switch, permit and commissioning.

All of Oklahoma. In Missouri we do solar detach and reset only - taking panels off for a roof job and putting them back - not general electrical service.

Often, yes. Wind and falling limbs bend service masts, tear off weatherheads and pull meter sockets loose from the wall, and that is storm damage to the same structure the roof claim is already about. It gets missed because the roofer does not look at it and the electrician never sees the claim. We look at both.

A concrete example from our own work: a standard 200 amp panel upgrade on a normal house runs about $3,250. That price includes the meter socket, service mast and service conductors, not just the box - and it includes us pulling the permit and coordinating the utility disconnect and reconnect. Yours moves from there based on the panel's condition, the mast, the grounding, and anything storm-related layered on top. You get the real number on the site survey, not a range that changes later.

Plan on being without power for a good part of one working day. The panel comes out, the new one goes in, the grounding and every circuit gets terminated, and the utility has to pull and reset the meter around that work. It is a scheduled job, not a same-day call.

It depends on a load calculation, not on a rule of thumb. Square footage, heating and cooling type, range, water heater, well pump, hot tub, EV charger and any planned solar or battery all go into it. Plenty of houses are fine at 100 amp until something big gets added - which is usually the phone call.

Eaton is our standard. It is what we quote unless there is a specific reason to do otherwise, so parts and future service are not a mystery ten years from now.

Those panels have a documented history of breakers that fail to trip on a fault. Having one is not itself an active code violation on an existing house, but home inspectors and insurance carriers flag them, and replacement is the only real fix. If your panel says Federal Pacific, Stab-Lok, Zinsco, Sylvania-Zinsco or Challenger, it is worth a look.

Not for age, capacity or an obsolete brand - that is a homeowner expense. Storm damage to the service mast, weatherhead, service conductors or meter socket is a different question, and that part can belong on a claim.

Sometimes. It comes down to the bus rating, the main breaker size and whether there is a legal place to land the backfeed breaker. We check that on the site survey rather than after the panels are ordered.

Yes. We pull the electrical permit ourselves and coordinate the utility disconnect and reconnect, and that is included in the $3,250 anchor price above, not billed as an extra.

A burning smell, scorch marks, discoloration around a breaker, a panel that is warm or buzzing, breakers that will not reset, or lights that dim when a large appliance starts. Those are reasons to call now rather than schedule for next month.

No. We install Generac units without a manufacturer dealer agreement - with Generac or anyone else. That is also why we install every other major generator brand, standby or portable-ready, instead of being limited to one. We will tell you honestly which brand and unit fit your house.

Natural gas or propane. Natural gas means no tank and no refueling as long as the gas line is intact; propane means a tank on site, which some rural properties already have. Either way the fuel supply has to be sized for the unit's demand, and that is part of the install rather than an afterthought.

A licensed plumber we bring in for that part of the job - the gas line is subcontracted, the same way our roofing shingle crews are. Our own electricians handle the siting, the pad, the transfer switch, the wiring, the permit and the commissioning.

No. We install standby generators and we also wire portable-generator inlets with manual transfer switches, for homeowners who already own a portable unit or want the lower-cost option instead of a permanently mounted standby system.

That is a sizing and transfer switch question, not a yes or no. A whole-house setup with load management can run air conditioning by shedding other large loads as needed. A smaller unit on an essential-circuits switch keeps the refrigerator, furnace blower, well pump, internet and outlets alive and leaves the air conditioning off. We work out which one you actually want before quoting hardware.

A standby unit senses the outage and starts on its own, usually within seconds, transfers the house over, then shuts back down once utility power returns and holds. Nobody has to be home. A portable unit on a manual transfer switch needs a person to start it and throw the switch.

From a signed contract to a running generator, plan on 2 to 3 weeks. Site and load survey, unit availability, the gas supply work, the permit and the inspection all sit inside that window - which is why the right time to sign the contract is not the week the forecast turns.

No. We install it - siting, gas coordination, transfer switch, wiring, permit and startup - and we do not offer ongoing maintenance or a service plan. A standby generator needs periodic service the way any small engine does - oil, filters, battery, a look at the fuel supply - on top of its own self-test exercise cycle. Check the manufacturer's recommended interval and line up a servicer for that before you need it.

A generator runs as long as fuel keeps coming and it will carry big loads like air conditioning, at the cost of noise and fuel. A battery is silent and needs no fuel, but its reserve is finite unless solar is recharging it during the day. For a multi-day ice storm the generator is usually the stronger answer; for frequent short outages on a solar house, the battery often is.

It covers defects caused solely by improper workmanship on the roof we installed, for as long as the original owner owns and occupies the property. If a workmanship defect causes a leak or failure, we inspect it and, once confirmed as covered, repair the defective workmanship at no labor charge.

Manufacturer defects and material failure, storm damage of any kind including hail and wind, damage from animals, pests, trees, foot traffic, abuse or neglect, structural movement, settling, improper ventilation, condensation or moisture originating inside the property, alterations or repairs made by anyone other than CRE Roofing, and components like gutters, siding, skylights, antennas or HVAC equipment unless the contract specifically includes them. Cosmetic conditions that do not affect the roof's ability to shed water are also excluded.

It is issued to the original property owner and is not transferable unless we approve the transfer in writing.

Provide reasonable maintenance, report a suspected problem promptly rather than after the damage spreads, and give us a reasonable opportunity to inspect and perform any covered repair. The warranty applies to work we have been paid in full for.

A manufacturer warranty covers the shingles themselves and is governed by the manufacturer's own terms. Ours covers the installation. Most roof failures are installation failures, which is why this is the one that usually matters - and why it is only worth something from a company that will still be here.

Defects caused by our own installation or workmanship on the electrical work we performed, for 5 years from substantial completion of that work. That includes connections and terminations, mounting and installation of equipment, and installation defects in wiring, conduit, breakers, disconnects, panels and fixtures. We repair or correct covered workmanship at no charge for labor or the materials reasonably needed to correct it, at our option.

No. The equipment itself - generators, transfer switches, EV chargers, panels, breakers, surge protection devices, fixtures - is covered by the manufacturer's own warranty, not this one. We will help identify which manufacturer warranty applies to your equipment, but our workmanship warranty covers our installation of it, not the part itself.

Manufacturing defects, normal wear, misuse or lack of maintenance, circuit overloading, utility voltage fluctuations or outages, lightning and surge events not caused by our workmanship, fire, water, storms, wind, hail, pests, structural movement, pre-existing conditions or code violations outside our contracted scope, existing wiring or equipment we did not install or modify, third-party alterations made after our work, and failure of connected equipment not caused by our workmanship.

Only the portions we installed or modified. Existing systems we did not touch are not covered.

Notify us within a reasonable period and during the warranty term, and give us a reasonable chance to inspect before another contractor makes permanent repairs, except in a genuine emergency. The remedy is repair, replacement or correction of the defective portion of our work - not a refund or a new installation of unrelated equipment.

It is non-transferable unless we approve a transfer in writing. Third-party alterations after our work may also void the warranty as to the affected portion.